Global Luxury Fashion

The birth of sync calendar – IWC Da Vinci (Da Vinci) Calendar

Over the years, there is a big problem calendar: day, week, month, year, moon phase and the whole school is not synchronized. This means that while the removal of watches in the normal conditions of various display is synchronized, but whenever clockwork stopped, you need to master one by one in accordance with the table distributed in the case on both sides of the top New Zealand and to adjust the date information. As shown in table models with a moon phase, the table need to go to the main calendar view with a month to adjust the moon phase information. Ever since the calendar watch has been such a debugging process for more than almost all the traditional calendar has become the standard tables. Although the school the whole process cumbersome, but for years we have also seen it used to have a perpetual calendar watch the normal troubles. This is why many of the traditional perpetual calendar watches are equipped with one of the main reasons to switch meter reader.

This situation continued until 1985. It is in this year, the genius of the IWC, Technical Director, Mr. Kurt Klaus has finally come to his school-integration simultaneous lighting of the torch structure of this calendar corner, thoroughly wash the whole inconvenience to the reputation of the school calendar.

　　IWC Da Vinci (Da Vinci) calendar institution

　　This was not tall, gray-haired, character-temperature combination, in looks and temperament no lack of similarities with Einstein, Mr. Kurt Klaus, in the IWC to work up to 50 years. He is a master Albert Pellaton (who invented the famous IWC Pellaton on the chain structure) of the disciples, and following Pellaton become IWC’s technical director. After he took office the first major project is a revolutionary determined to simplify the structure of calendar, would like to make it more operational and better production. At the same time, he out of the world’s first system to display 4-digit calendar age (traditional calendar in general only displays the current whether it is a leap year)

IWC Da Vinci (Da Vinci) Calendar

The most important thing is, Kurt Klaus system out of a can all date information (day, week, month, year and moon phase) synchronization of calendar watch the whole school. Watch has stopped after the crown just to pull out quickly and accurately transferred to the present day, other information will be automatically adjusted better.

Use the calendar component Klaus is IWC in 1985 introduced Da Vinci perpetual calendar. During the year without any help of CAD software to complete this feat is remarkable. Entirely on the mathematics, modeling techniques, and on “the simplest is always best” philosophy’s insistence, Klaus has taught the world’s most advanced and cheapest calendar. IWC calendar from elevated to the status of a prominent position.

　　Gears of Magic – Ulysse Nardin’s perpetual calendar two time (GMT Perpetual)

Although the IWC in the twentieth century with the synchronization device greatly simplifies the entire school calendar of the operation, and cost-effective products to the table so that more fans to enjoy the joy of watch has a perpetual calendar, but it has still drawbacks – date no callback. On the calendar a little understanding of friends all know, the calendar date can only be adjusted in one direction forward. A careful but not too far to calendar the date of transfer, the table key player unable to date the callback. Shown with only a leap year calendar is okay, emphasized that once had been moved forward four years later, the exact date we’re OK, because for the table, each four-year calendar structures are the same. But like the IWC introduced, the figures show the calendar year of the trouble (although the calendar the same structure, but the show in 2008 wearing a 2012’s watch is always awkward). This problem generally encountered only two kinds of helplessness solution: If you emphasized the limited number of days can make watches stop running, wait until the actual date in line with the significant date; but if the tune had come too far away, and it can only be sent back to the table factory to open the back cover to adjust the table maker.

Ulysse NARDIN two places when the calendar

Also, if wearing a perpetual calendar to fly to places frequented by the lag time zone (for example, flying from Beijing to New York, there are 12-hour time lag), the only way to ensure that the destination of the date in line with the practice of watch you need to master the table on the road to Table stopped because once the clock passed midnight, 12 points will not be transferred back to the date.

In 1996, located in Le Locle, Switzerland’s watchmaking factory Ulysse Nardin solve the above problem. Ulysse Nardin launch of two calendar time (GMT Perpetual) is not only the whole school can synchronize the date and the date can be before and after the two sides to the whole school.

Help Mr. Ulysse Nardin CEO Rolf Schnyder realize this technology, is another one of modern watchmaking legend – Ludwig Oechslin Ph.D. Oechslin young man who had been invited to reinstate an outline of the famous, called Farnese clock. This clock can display up to more than 60 kinds of civil time information, astronomical information, and horoscope information. In the repair process, Oechslin learned called “epicyclic” (Epicyclical Gearing) of the ancient planetary gear system. Years ago, this experience has given Oechslin calendar on the production of a revolutionary inspiration – he wanted to use epicyclic gear to the calendar date information for all of the solid, permanent and accurate “bundled” together.

Epicyclic gear also known as “sun and planet gear.” Simply put, this is one of the pinion gear around the periphery of the planetary gear system. When Oechslin understand its mechanical function, he found that if the right mix two sets of gears, not only can achieve amazing accuracy, and can find the magic in mathematics such as Pi and Phi values such as harmony and proportion.

Oechslin the first time epicyclic gear system used in the Ulysse Nardin 1985 The R & D out of the famous astronomical watch Astrolabium, so that the table owner can accurately the wrist to see the planet Earth walking around the laws. Later, Oechslin can be found in the application of the gear system was extended to watch on the calendar to produce the world’s first full flexibility both to the school’s calendar.

Need to rely on a traditional calendar system to drive a number of levers date information display. Leverage the system required a large number of geometry and motion components to enable the production of movement has become very complicated. As the lever system can only operate in one direction, the reason can not be caused by the traditional calendar date of the callback situation.

In the process of delving into gear system, Oechslin feel more and more gear to boost the calendar information display system is a natural approach. Because of this calendar is running entirely on gears rather than levers and springs, so that the full date information can be easy and quick adjustment before or after the transfer.

Not only that, this calendar can also display two time zones, time of installation included. Regardless of the table the main east or west, fly fly, just in case four o’clock or seven o’clock position of the + / – button to tune before or after the transfer to local time zone clock, you can ensure that the calendar date information and the local date and correct.

In the information display on, Ulysse Nardin has changed the pointer over the traditional calendar was dazzling design. GMT Perpetual to open the dial on a number of small window to highlight the current day, week, month and year. Simple style of the traditional calendar to bring a significant reduction in the main table of information overload, it seems a lot of refreshing.

Ulysse Nardin GMT Perpetual lovely advantage of more than that. As the Year 2100, Greeley is not a leap year, so others must be synchronized in this calendar year, returned to re-adjust the watch factory, otherwise the date will result in synchronization with the week’s out of line. Although the GMT Perpetual Calendar is synchronized, but it allows the table and freedom to adjust weeks, it will not be limited in 2100. It can be said, GMT Perpetual comprehensive design, originality of the movement structure, and it gave great flexibility in the main table, making it a very suitable for modern pace of life, functional highly calendar watch.

　　Flash Calendar – H. Moser’s on the 1st calendar (Perpetual 1)

Although Ulysse Nardin perpetual calendar, when the two places has been on the market today can be said that the most flexible calendar table models, but it is aesthetically there is still an unresolved issue over the years. At the end of this issue on the date of replacement steps. Including the GMT Perpetual Calendar, including most of the steps at the end of the dates are: ozuki where the last day of the late 9 o’clock, date from 30 to 31 entered, and then instantly jump to 12:00 midnight the next month No. 1; in non-leap year February 28, the date will be later than 9:00 into the 29, at 10 pm into the evening to 30, in the late 11 to 31 into the final 12-point moments at midnight to the next No. 1-month; in a leap year of February 29, the date will be 10 pm into the 30, in the late 11 to 31, into the final jump to No. 1 at midnight. This date change means that each step will be the last day of ozuki about 3 hours of the date the information is not correct. More important is that even if the replacement process is only just a few hours, but let a couple of hours in this calendar shows such as the April 31, 2 30, or a non-leap year of February 29 does not exist such as the date, watch art in the eyes of purists a bit overly rough. This issue until 2005, was only launched on the 1st H. Moser’s calendar (Perpetual 1) solution.

H. Moser’s on the 1st calendar (Perpetual 1)

Perpetual 1 in 2006 in Geneva, where senior Watches Grand Prix won the Technical Innovation Award, it Ulysse Nardin’s technical basis, they used a set of “flash calendar” display system. Watch in general, only a date wheel, and this “flash calendar” system used the two overlap and contain the date of each round, the upper date of launch from No. 1 to 14, the lower from 15 to 31. Whenever the end of the month, date, instantly jump to the beginning of next month, without the need for any indirect replacement process. “Flash” is also the consequent.

Even more amazing is that, Perpetual 1 date of operation, the callback is also a “flash” feature. For example, from March 1 to the callback day, the table’s primary date to see directly is February 28. Technically speaking, from an objective, Moser’s Perpetual 1 have accounted for the current calendar technologies should be the first perpetual calendar watch the market. It should be noted that, Perpetual 1 in the calendar information display on the design style will be simple to play to the extreme. I first saw it when you even suspect that the fact that it is the calendar. It does not show a week, but apart from the date at 3 o’clock position out of the window, the only other date on the dial information display is the one located in the dial center, very humble sword-type pointer, pointing to on behalf of the 12-month part-time 12 . Leap year show is actually located in the main movement of the plywood on the back through the table to see the sapphire crystal. Although the design of such a break with convention to make the time and date information easy to read, but not everyone is like this is extremely simple style.

IWC, Ulysse Nardin, and Moser companies such as technological innovation, so that the operation of perpetual calendar watches more and more simple and flexible design more and more simple and modern. Up to several hundred years, to cumbersome and noble image of the traditional calendar-based era thus gradually come to an end. I am confident in the future of young modern calendar, right from other brands of technological innovation remains to be seen.